Last Day in Tokyo

It’s always hard to know how to spend your last day in a big city when you are facing an overnight flight.

I opted to give Steve a knife making class to celebrate his birthday.

But first I picked up my rings and my bangle. They quite a fuss presenting it to me.

Here they are.
And on my wrinkly hand

It was a fun session. Thank you Nane_asakusa.

Then it was off to Bub Activity Centre

https://bub-activitycenter.com/#bub

I found this and it happened to be around the corner from our hotel so no long train journey!

It was so well run. We had loads of fun and learned something as well.

Run by 3 young people including Misa who turns out to be Russian! it was set up so well. And run in a fun but professional way.

We are set up with protective jackets, finger protectors, and our own sharpening stone.

We saw the different types of knives and selected one. They are a carbon knife and start just s as a blade. We sharpen!

It was harder than it looked! I’m going a vegetable chopping knife. Steve’s doing a standard kitchen knife.

They were helpful with showing us where we could improve how to hold it …. Where to add pressure

After we reached a certain stage we went to the engraving table. We learned how to write our name in Japanese, then engrave it on the wooden handle.

It was hard!

Back to the sharpening table to do the other side. But first we had to pass the ‘slice the paper’ test. I passed as did Steve.

Then we graduated to the next grade stone to finish ……back and forth. Up and down. Until the edge was perfect. My fingers were hurting!

Be scared Steve.

We had photos taken and the knife was boxed for travel. We have to declare it. It’s a weapon. I hope theres no problem.

I would recommend this great activity. Especially as a last day thing when you’re out of the hotel and don’t want a huge day.

BUB as they are called run lots of activities.

We finished around 12.30. Had a quick bite then headed to Jiyucho

https://jiyucho.tokyo/en/pages/jiyucho-tokyo

When searching for bookshops or craft shops or writing centres I found this. It’s near Asakusa where we’re based ( Did I mention I love this area)

We tried to go yesterday and now today I really don’t have time to sit and sip tea and write and feel super peaceful. But I had to see it.

The lady who runs the shop – for a better word …. Is Eika. She was quietly spoken. Probably because there were 6 people sitting quietly writing.

The idea is you write a letter to yourself using prompts suggested by the centre.

I hope you can enlarge and read

You are given beautiful tea to sip and you write. In a year they post you the letter. What a lovely idea.

There are also postcards you can write to yourself or friends and they will post them.

There’s also a library. You can take a book and exchange but they ask you to write a letter to put inside.

Eika was delightful. She showed me around, talked so calmly and let me take lots of photos. And I bought some cards and coffee pouches with inspirational words on them. I had to use my translator!

The coffee bags with thoughts. Some translations don’t always’flow’

I think we need this in Brisbane. Japanese people seem so calm and patient. We need to adopt some of these traits.

We made it back to the hotel to change and get the Skyliner train. 41 minutes to Narita.

All very easy.

Tomorrow I wake up in Brisbane. Can’t wait to see the family friends.

Last Days in Tokyo

We’re slowing down a little…… left the hotel around 10 and went for brunch at the February Kitchen a rather hip type of cafe that wouldn’t be out of place in Byron Bay.

It was opposite a fun park!

Steve felt like eggs.

Feeling full we went walking. I had found a place that offered a place of peace in a big city. You could go to the cafe and sit and write a letter which would be posted to you in a year’s time. You could reflect on aspects of your life. You could sit & read and write poem. You can write postcards to friends. It sounded charming. So we walked the streets of Asakusa through to the next suburb. Kuramae

This area seems to be handbag area. There were so many beautiful handbag shops. The leather smelled beautiful and the cost was reflected in the quality. I resisted.

We found Jiyucho. And it was closed! So we took a train back to our area and sat in the grounds of Senoji. This is probably my favourite shrine. It wasn’t when we first went there at the start of our trip. That day it was raining and super crowded. But today is more peaceful and a great people watching place.

It’s the weekend so all the young girls are dressed in traditional kimonos. They walk with little steps. I think to keep the thong footwear on. though some wear sneakers.

We also spotted a strange looking character dressed in what appeared to be an army uniform. Steve did a quick research and found he was not a serving army member or perhaps had never been. He had a flask and he kept sipping out of it. definitely odd. Mmmm

By now it was time for my jewellery making course. What started out as a ring turned into 2 fine rings and a bracelet. The lovely owners Gayani and her husband were so helpful. They offered to make one ring and the bracelet to save me time. But I had time and said I’d like to do it all. Would I be sorry? Would they have to fix things?

I started with a ring. The design was poco poco. I held the cylinder and hammered away. Quite therapeutic.

Then the next design. Cutter cutter a different technique. A slower heavy hammering.

The the bangle. Also in cutter cutter.

The face of concentration

I really enjoyed it. A great activity for a holiday – to take home something personal – hand made !

I left the store without the jewellery. They are going to do the polishing later so I opted to collect it tomorrow.

Back to the hotel – about 10 minutes which is great. Everything is close in this area !

We went to the rooftop, but as I said it’s the no alcohol bar. So we took our own….. don’t judge please!

The rain was getting heavy so we decided to eat very locally. We also had a cultural show on at 9pm. Free for guests – with geishas dancing.

We thought we’d try the Kazoo club for some jazz and it was close the hotel. But first a drink. Steve spotted Black and White bar and we went in. Probably only an 18 seater with a charming Japanese owner. He’s only been open 2 months so is building clientele. It’s a great bar. He made me a pear Shochu martini. Quite delicious.

Shochu is a distilled Japanese spirit made with fermented ingredients like sweet potato or rice and it’s known for it low alcohol. Sounds good to me. Cheers !!!!Delicious

Peeling the pear for my martini !

After we’d finished we walked a little further dodging puddles sbccernt down into Jazoo. Why are jazz club always down stairs?? We looked in and there weren’t many people. Well there was 1 but it was early. And it was open mic night. So we decided to give it a miss. And headed for food.

We tried one. Full. Another had a very limited menu. The third had a few full tables. So in we went. It was another one with the bbq at your table. It was just right. Lovely meat.

I just love how you can choose the grade of meat. Steve had best tenderloin. Not just tenderloin. I had superior rips. Not just ribs. ( not a typo. That’s how it was written. ! Tips. )

We ordered a big salad and beer. Simple and tasty. And when you leave they give you a spray bottle to spray your clothes so you don’t smell smoky.

I love Japan. So many great thoughtful ideas.

After dinner we splashed back to the hotel about 3 minutes away, and went to the restaurant at our hotel for the cultural show.

Well what a n experience. Hosted by a man who had a very loud expressive voice he introduced the two geisha and the women playing the rather tuneless Japanese style mandolin.

The singer musician and the host
Our two geisha girls.

It was good but funny and fairly typical of the show they think tourists want. We don’t. We want something traditional.

Half an hour of dancing and we headed to our room to pack.

Last day tomorrow.

And our knife making course.

Day Trip from Tokyo to Kamakura and Enoshima

Starting early….. it’s an hour and 20 mins to the south to Kamakura and Enoshima which is a little island connected by a bridge.

We decided on a taxi to Tokyo central as there was a major hold up on the line connecting us to Tokyo. traffic was fine. In fact despite the millions who live here the streets are not crazy.

Arriving into Kamakura was like arriving at a beach holiday destination. There were cries of excitement especially from the hoards of school children. All decked out in yellow caps ( how do they tell them apart) they were clogging the already crowded streets.

A small group of yellow hats.

I may have mentioned the school children. At the end of Oct it’s school excursion time. They go somewhere for a week and seem to be wandering in groups. They must have a meeting time and place because there aren’t many teachers visible with them.

We walked up the famous shopping street with all its food and novelties and saw the Shrine then caught the little Enoden electric tram along the coast.

We got off to see the biggest Buddha.

Spotted on the tram was a school kid in disguise!

Full black face mask , glasses, yellow with hood pulled up.

The little tram stopped along the coast where there little beaches where people probably swim in summer but no one was in now.

We got off at Enoshima. From the station you walk down a long street straight to the bridge across to the island. About a 30 mins walk if you take your time.

The walk across to the island

The island is small and very hilly. Around the islands which should have cafes and restaurants there are car parks. Very strange. The Main Street of the Bridge leads straight up to the shrine and giant candle on top of the hill.

Up to the shrine.

I opted not to walk the 208 steps up and went exploring the back streets which is a favourite thing of mine. Getting off the tourist walk.

I found this little walkway down to a beach.

Steve walked to the caves which involved lots of stairs

We had stopped for prawns for lunch. Always delicious. Their tempura is great.

Back to the station and the tram to the nearest JR train station back to Tokyo. We got seats which is always a blessing. No one seems to give up seats for older people here.

A little rest was needed. Our days have a lot of walking. Today 16,000 for me and over 20,000 for Steve.

Then out for dinner. It’s Steve’s 75th birthday today. So we opted for a reservation! No wandering around choosing. We were going Frencb but it was booked out so went to Braceli run by an Italian Japanese man. He lived in Rome and Venice for years so we communicated in Italian.

The food was good.

A beautiful salad. With prosciutto

A few glasses of wine to toast the birthday boy and home to bed. I love how our hotel is so handy to many things. an east 15 min walk in a back street of Asakusa.

Tomorrow I’m doing a ring making experience.

Tokyo : Asakusa

When in a big city I always think it’s a good idea to stay in different areas if possible.

This time we had 3 nights at the beginning of our holiday with our friends and more we’re have 4 nights on our own.

I was told Asakusa was a great area as it contrasts with Ginza where we stayed at the beginning.

Ginza has good trains to all the sights we wanted to see at the beginning Skylab, the markets, the big crossing, also up market shops! And some nice restaurants.

Now in Asakusa there are markets, beautiful walls up back streets, close to Ueno Park, the national museum and a huge selection of restaurants. We’ll never cover it all.

We chatted to two street cleaners employed by the council. So colourful.

We started out exploring by walking to Ueno across the river dropping at a great coffee place / you only find the great coffee in off Main Street places!

Coffee with the house sweet red bean cake.

They were setting up for a festival so with my handy Google translator I worked out that it’s in Saturday – and that’s when we leave.

Ueno Park

We crossed to the impressive national gallery. A beautiful building and so well set out.

A wonderful collection Netsuke

We looked at things that interested us / the clothes, painted screens, and bronze works

We stopped in the ‘create’ area and made a print. Such a great activity You got a little card, and put it in and out of little boxes where you used a big stamp to print. The picture was revealed by the 5th stamp.

We went to a near by gallery cafe. Always quiet and well presented. Though I missed the ‘book in’ section when you as you name to a list. I thought you just say in order along the wall. the salad was delicious!

We headed to the Children’s Literature centre. It was very much a reference for literature. Not too much in the way of hands on.

I looked for Australian books and spied Hairy Maclary.

The staircase was very grand.

Back to the hotel to drop things off then onto the Japan Blue Jeans company. Run by a very trendy Japanese man, he helped Steve achieve a new level of trendiness. He bought two pairs of jeans and they did the hem in a few extra minutes.

The Jean shop has loads of vintage dolls all dressed in jeans.

I then headed into Don Quijote that house of plastic and everything else. It’s what our $2 shops are like but on steroids. Floors of stuff with people carrying huge baskets filled to the brim. You have to know what you want or you could get lost in there forever.

Then a quick trip to Uniqlo. Steve managed a small haul. Not me. I can get it in Brisbane at the same price. Though I was tempted by the cashmere cardigan. But they make them short now so too short for me and the moths might eat it while I wait for next winter.

Back to the hotel again. Very centrally placed ! Before heading out for dinner.

Turns out Wednesday is the night lots of restaurants close. Still a great choice and we found a bbq grill place and it was great. We had bbq octopus & pork and an okonomiyaki with prawns. Delicious.

Back at the hotel we went to their 10th floor lounge for guests. It’s got all kinds of snack food and sweets, coffee, juice but no alcohol ! So we took some whiskey and wine in water bottles. We are bad people!

The view is straight to the Tokyo tower.

Another good day.

Tomorrow off for a big day in Kamakura and Enoshima Island.

Shinkansen back to Tokyo

We had another rainy morning so headed to the station and had coffee there before getting the Shinkansen train to Tokyo.

If you’re in Japan you must experience their trains. Especially the Shinkansen. It’s the Bullet train and clocks speeds of around 264 km per hour. Amazing.

The stations have a great assortment of bento boxes, sandwiches / from Family Mart, drinks machines everywhere making taking a snack very easy. On these longer trips 2.5 hrs to cross the country most people bring their food. But by the end of the journey there isn’t one bit of rubbish left behind. Amazing!!!

We got off a stop earlier than Tokyo main station because we realised that Ueno Park was closer to our hotel. We changed to a JR train and in two stops were close to our hotel – the Asakusa View Hotel Annex Rokku. It’s fairly new and off the Main Street and close to all the little laneways of restaurants and shops. It’s a complete contrast to upmarket Ginza where we stayed when we first arrived.

As we were arriving Chris & Jill were leaving! They are heading home today.

I like the change of areas. I had a big walk around to get to know the place while Steve did the washing. These hotels all have cooperated laundry rooms. For 400 yen ( $4) you can do a load of washing. Drying is 100 yen.

Beautifully lit gates

We headed off for a drink and dinner and wandered the covered market streets.

Lots of street art

We were looking for bar but most here are all restaurants as well Until we found Zen which looked like a wine bar but did turn into a restaurant. It was a great little place

We stayed and had a great meal. Steve had the ginger pork and I had octopus rice hot pot.

We walked back to the hotel via Lawsons – like 7 eleven. Only so much better than our Australian ones. We got a few supplies and now I’m preparing for a bubble bath and Steve’s having whiskey bought from Lawsons and watching the baseball finals.

Wandering Kanazawa

Our first day with no travel buddies! It’s been great sharing our travels with the Wilsons and McGregors. They are fun travel buddies.

Today we started fairly slowly. But as the sun was out we thought we should take advantage of it and get moving. We walked and found the loop bus. It runs around the city in a loop both ways, stopping at all the attractions.

We caught it to the Museum of Contemporary Art.

Set in a park it is a modern circular building with many art installations around it. Including the coloured structure above. With panels of different colours it changes your perspective of the world.

Inside there are various galleries some ticketed some not. It’s a great space and some fun art.

We’ve noticed there is no graffiti anywhere we’ve seen in Japan. No bins around either. But no rubbish. You are expected to take your rubbish away with you. Great idea.

There was a pool in a courtyard and when you looked in you could see people walking inside it. Great altered mind state.

Look inside!

We left the gallery and continued to walk. We came to the canal and met up with a lovely man who was there to feed the fish. He told us about the city and the fact that the city had many kilometres of canals circling it.

Our walk took us the old Samurai area. There we walked in the steps of the old samurai …..down cobbled streets past old wooden houses some of which are now occupied by art and craft shops.

I pottered in and out buying a few gifts as I went.

We stopped for lunch and opted for a delicious vegetable soup. Similar to a minestrone. Delicious. Especially with a beer Steve told me.

The rain had returned but not heavy so we stopped off at a department store back in the Main Street. It was beautiful but so empty of customers! it had a great food hall and u wanted to buy lots but opted for bananas for breakfast!

We waited for a bus and being a wanderer I said…let’s get this one and see where we go. It snaked its way in and around the city streets, crossed the river twice and before we knew it we were back at the castle gardens near our hotel. Perfect!

We dropped our parcels in and had a little rest before heading back out for dinner.

This time we walked the opposite direction into the old geisha area. It was charming. Still a little wet

We found a great Yakitori restaurant where we opted to sit at the bar and watch the theatre of the kitchen.

Drsssed with samurai type headbands the chefs were busy all night including giving a touching cheer as people came and left!

We had the set course which included an appetiser box ,

tempura, a hot pot,

chicken skewers , noodles and teeny tiny matcha panda cotta . All fairly small but delicious and we were full.

Luckily we had a walk back to the hotel.

It wasn’t late so I decided to visit the onsen. These public baths are everywhere in Japan. Most hotels have one. Japanese people are so relaxed because of these baths – in my opinion. And they have the smoothest skin!

I arrived at this one where a gaggle of older Japanese ladies were re dressing after their shared onsen. It quietened down so off came the gown and I had the obligatory shower before entering the bath. I there were only 2 ladies there with me. You take a small towel with you which you put on your head when in the bath. I wrapped my hair up.

When you get out you take another shower sitting on little low stools then soap yourself with the lovely products. Sitting in the stools all soapy is dangerous ! Getting up is a challenge.

Then into the change room to dry off before sitting at the mirrors in a towel to apply all the body creams and oil and blow dry your hair. Quite the experience.

Needless to say I was ready for a good sleep. And I found how to open the window for some fresh air.

Rainy Train Journey.

We had plenty of time to get organised this morning. We were all leaving on the 11.03 out of Takayama.

The station was awash with early bird travellers. There was a big line of people and lots of suitcases. Most people were heading to Tokyo , so probably at the end of their holiday – like our friends the McGregors. Steve and I sent our luggage on but our friends brought theirs.

So there was a lot of scrambling once we were allowed into platform 1 !

The poor conductor was waving his arms trying to hurry everyone. The train risked being a minute late to leave the station!!!

Once on board everyone seemed to settle and we enjoyed being indoors on this rainy day.

The clouds hung low

The countryside was very green. Lots of trees and water flowing and power stations.

Before we knew it we were farewelling our dear friends Peter & Elizabeth. They very nearly had to cancel as they both had been to NZ and caught some nasty virus. But they came and rallied and we loved having them with us. We’ve had many trips together.

We all changed trains at Toyama. We had less than 6 mins. We had to move fast and Chris and Jill had their bags.

We made it – just!

Then the 35 min trip to Kanazawa. This city is known for its castle and gardens.

After finding our hotel the rather old world place we went walking.

First to the Omicho markets. Much more a food market than the Nishiki market in Kyoto.

All undercover market

We bought some fresh prawns and sushi and stood at bench tables eating along with a beer for the boys.

We left and headed for the Castle it was starting to sprinkle but not enough to deter us. We headed up the hill with Chris dancing g Ali g. Very light in his feet singing ‘ I’m singing in the rain’

We left the castle grounds. Crossed the road and arrived at the Kenrokuen Gardens.

These are very famous…. Kenrokuen” means “garden that combines six characteristics.” These six characteristics are spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, water sources and magnifient views. Not every garden in Japan can combine all of these features but Kenrokuen does.

It’s beautiful.

The trees are starting to show their autumn colours.

Unfortunately for us it wasn’t sunlit but it had a moodiness that comes with rain and cloud cover. We still enjoyed the peace as many people would have avoided the gardens in the rain.

The rain got heavier so we decided to head off. We walked down a hill to our hotel , passing along a garden path behind the hotel.

Many sculptures lined the path back to our hotel.

We dripped into the hotel foyer and headed to our rooms to dry off.

Jill and I hatched a perfect plan. We didn’t want go out again in the dark and rain so sent the boys for supplies. They cane back with beer, wine, sashimi and sushi. Perfect room picnic.

Takayama

When we were deciding where to stay it was a toss up between Takayama and Hida. I’m so pleased we had one night in Hida. It’s a small town but so beautiful and so well preserved. But a real town.

Takayama is bigger and more crowded. I like it but it doesn’t have the charm of Hida, or the atmosphere of Miyajima or even the variety of sightseeing Kyoto has to offer.

We got here yesterday and walked a little till it was getting dark and quite cold. The weather so far has been great. Really warm up until Hida when being high in the mountains produces cooler weather. It was welcome. I was getting a bit over wearing the same few dresses! I pack light and it was getting a bit boring.

Today we set off at 8.30 for the morning markets. They are located on the river. White tents mostly with food items. Similar scenes are found all over the world. Only in Japan it felt very calm.

The only decent coffee was found by smelling coffee beans and spying a line of people!

No wonder there was a line. There were two people in the tent. The man was taking orders – slowly one at a time and then assembling little coffee cups made out of an edible cone with room for an espresso and the young woman was doing everything else!

She was making the coffee then carrying it to the serving table and decorating each coffee individually!

The coffee was nice and we had a seat in the warm sun and a croissant ! And a banana so a balanced breakfast! Not very Japanese. No fish or pickles.

Lots of plants.
And packets of dried fruits all wrapped beautifully.

We walking further into the old town to where their festival floats are stored and explored the streets which have no power lines!

The gang

Late morning we headed back to the bus station. We were going to Shirakawa. We had bought an unreserved seat and the lady reassured us that we’d get a seat on a bus at that time. She told us they just kept adding buses. She was right. We got on bus 4 of the ones leaving at 11.50.

Declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 1995, Shirakawa is famous for their traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses, some of which are more than 250 years old.

We walked through the small town and tried to imagine it in winter! The snow would keep people in their houses and make life difficult. One house we were able to visit was Kanda. It was spread over 5 levels and would have held not just one family but relatives as well. It’s so well preserved.

Examples of clothing

The views over the village showed how it was laid out. People still live there but it must be hard with tourists crawling all over it.

We bought some lunch and like the lady at the coffee stall this morning one man was running a little shop selling Hida beef croquettes and chicken bites. For each order he left the window where he took the order and went and cooked the items. It’s slow and very unhurried and you develop patience.

It started to sprinkle so we headed back to the bus station and caught a bus back to Takayama.

Stopping off at the hotel bar we were going to have coffee or tea but Elizabeth led us astray and we had an espresso martini.

Macca stuck with tea.

After a change and a bit of packing we headed out for our last dinner together. We all leave on a train tomorrow but the Wilson’s and ourselves get off in Kanazawa and the McGregors go on to Tokyo. They have one night there then fly home.

For today’s dinner we celebrated our great holiday together and an early birthday celebration for Steve’s birthday next Thursday.

Thank you to our friends for making this a great holiday.

Friday in Hida

A sleep of the angels, a bath in the onsen and breakfast dressed in our yakata delivered by Keito.

Breakfast

Again it was a Japanese meal with emphasis on fresh produce.

We had fish, vegetables, miso soup with mushrooms tofu and a delicious rice and caramelised spring onion.

We packed up and spent most of the day wandering the streets visiting some of the local businesses.

Lovely displays outside the wooden shops
Crackers made in house. All different flavours
A wood craft museum showing how wood is used. Steve was challenged in his wood techniques

A sake distillery, a candle shop, a weavers house filled with things made by the sweet lady of the house.

Next was our morning coffee stop. Macca was looking turnabout so had a yummy smelling butter chicken curry. We all had the home made waffle and great coffee.

On to the festival floats exhibition. Every April after the winter snow has melted there is a festival.

The family groups ’clans’ all have a float tell their story. Some of the floats are a couple of hundred years . Everyone dresses in yakatas and kimonos and beat drums – they parade through the town. It goes for 3 days and looks magnificent.

The exhibition hall is set out do beautifully. A few tried their hand at the pole balance !

And the marionettes

And boxing!

At 2.30 we collected our bags and headed to Takayama.

Here we’re staying at the modern Mecure. Very comfortable but no pj’s , no onsen in our room , no breakfast ( or Kaiseki dinner).

We had a walk to the old town , a drink in the bar and had dinner at a bbq Hida beef place nearby. Second last night with this fabulous group.

Hida a great hideaway.

We met up with the McGregors who had finished their cycling days and met us on the train.

We had a big travel day getting to Hida but it is a great place after the busy days of cities. Though Miyajima and Naoshima were quite laid back and not rushed. It’s good to have a balance. We were very busy in Tokyo and Kyoto. Now we have slowed the pace and are enjoying the change.

Hida is very special.

We arrived in beautiful sunshine and walked for about 10 minutes to our Ryokan. Busuitei.

Looking across the red bridge to our Ryokan.

We were given the warmest welcome by Rumi and Keito in the sitting area of the hotel.

They made us herb tea and coffee with special homemade sweets

We were shown our rooms. Steve and I had a downstairs room and it was huge. It had 3 main rooms , a bathroom with its own onsen, a toilet room which turned on a light and raised the seat for you on arrival and a bedroom with the best doona’s of the trip.

View from our room
Our onsen

We changed into our kimonos – yakata for dinner in a gorgeous dining room and served a Kaiseki meal by Keito. Kaiseki is a style of meal that has many little dishes that reflect the local produce and are presented in an artistic way.

It is a highly refined and artistic form of Japanese haute cuisine, with the menu carefully planned to balance flavors, textures, and colors, often served at a traditional ryokan. It was sensational.

Sone of the dishes featured fish, pickles, meat which we did shabu shabu style, miso…..
Keito explaining the cooking style

We finished a multi course meal and when we went to our room we took an onsen. The water was super hot but once in, it was so relaxing. It made us sleepy and we had the best nights sleep!

The lady who owns the Ryokan
The entry hall in the Ryokan.

Tomorrow is a slow walk around this very old very pretty town.

https://busuitei.co.jp